Posted by: matthewlatimer | 11/22/2010

What is the opportunity cost of my investment?

If I were to compare purchasing a home versus investing those downpayment funds, which would put me ahead at the end of the day?
This is a question everyone asks themselves; is the insurance based segregated fund better than the straight corporate class mutual fund? what are the real datapoints that I’m comparing here?
I would start by looking at commitment period, and make a list including expense cost of the invesment to be maintained, risk of losing money (by type) as the biggest section so you have fully visualized those risks (which may include property value, vacancies, market crash, corporate bankruptcy, penalties for exiting the investment if required), possible upside (to examine the risk/reward profile), complexity of the investment, time required to monitor and maintain the investment, and more as you deem suitable.
Lets take for example a real property versus a financial investment in a mutual fund that invests in bonds, debentures, corporate notes and warrants.
Real property investment is a long term commitment, approximately 5% in fees for the agent when sold (occurring at the final total market value of the property, and requires a loan to purchase, taking a bite out of net expected returns; National Bank currently offers a fixed 5 year in the neighbourhood of 3.5% as an ongoing expense. Since people primarily invest in condos for their investments, I’ll illustrate a $225,000 downtown Toronto 1 bedroom condo for this example.
Downpayment of $45,000 (20%) to avoid CMHC insurance fees creates a $180,000 mortgage at 3.5% is a fee of (semi annual compounding excluded) $6300 per year, in addition to the condo fees of a conservative ($350 / mo) $4200. So in the first year the investment is $55,500.
Rental income for this hypothetical condo would be in excess of $1,100, with an average vacancy of 5% generates an income of $12,540 net.
To summarize: 6300 + 4200 = 10,500 in costs, with an income of 12,540 equals a return of $2040 or 1.35% (on 55,500).
That’s a lukewarm annual return. Bearing in mind that the income from which is added to your taxable income, and capital gains are charged against the property on it’s sale (as 100% investment property). And remember, I haven’t included land-transfer taxes or school taxes or any additional heating costs that may be applicable.
Verdict? 10 years for rent to pay the realtor fee excluding property appreciation.. it better appreciate!
VERSUS
Mutual Fund that is mostly safe, invests in bonds and fixed payment financial products that pays a modest 3% per year after expenses.

$55,500 @ 3% = $1665 in profit

Additionally, if you could borrow the same $180,000 as you did for the mortgage at 3.5% and then invest it in the above mutual fund yielding 3% the cost would be a half percent, or $900 annually.

$180,000 @ .5% = $900, or $75 per month.
Net return On this option = monthly cost of $75, minus cash distributions, dividends, and asset growth over time.

Time? Commitment? Risk? Effort? I think the choice is clear on this one. Take the 3% on the $55,500 investment and consider carefully whether borrowing to invest is something that suits your financial plan. Speak to your registered advisor.
Posted by: matthewlatimer | 01/01/2010

A tip for pursuing financial strategies

It is a given that participating in a single financial product impacts the entirety of your household finances. For this reason, two things must be kept in mind when speaking with your advisor or contemplating new directions for your wealth building.

#1 Keep it Simple.

Using too many different products or more than one financial advisor; what I call the shotgun approach to finance is ineffective. Also, tying your finances in a knot to save on tax, or writing ten cheques a month are things to avoid. If it can’t be explained in a couple sentences, it isn’t a strong plan. It’s fine if the strategy is multi-part, but it’s not fine if you cant’ disengage in less than a week. Ask yourself: could I be doing better with a strip bond or mutual fund?

#2 Commit to the strategy.

Once you’ve decided to go ahead with a plan, stick to it. There is the opportunity-cost of having started this plan versus something else, and additionally the lack of your full attention will cripple the success of anything complex. Talk about it in advance, ask the questions you need, and trust your advisor. Do, or don’t; but definitely don’t waver.

Posted by: matthewlatimer | 11/14/2009

Statements, statements, everywhere

Account Statements are a necessary evil of the investment world. We all get them, I choose electronic ones because its the green choice… But when was the last time you looked at the details or noticed that one was wrong?

In your mailbox each month you should not expect to receive anything, unless it is on the ‘quarter’ end of – march, june, september, december. These are the minimum legal requirements in Canada for account providers and product manufacturers. Currently dealer requirements under the MFDA are for a single statement per year, but that exception is going away by 2011.

The other thing that regularly hits the mailbox is a trade confirmation, a record of transaction details, like a purchase. It includes the name and symbol of what you purchased, the date, price, total and taxes, and through whom it was purchased. Make sure the details are accurate, and if there is a different broker name or anything else amiss, compare it against the statement or call immediately- the fund company, broker/planner, dealer, or account provider, never let it sit as most firms have a 45 day rule for errors.

What you should be looking for? When your broker told you he would purchase, did he say next day or that same afternoon? Is it there in writing? Confirm the price against the day by going to www.globefund.com orhttp://finance.yahoo.com and putting the name or symbol in the search box.

If its a mutual fund that you bought, did the advisor hand you (or email these days) a document that describes the fund risks and investment objectives ….and did you read it? Did he talk about the risks involved with that*specific* fund before you signed on the dotted line? The document is called a prospectus, and you should always ask for one. If you told your advisor that you want to purchase a ‘socially responsible fund’ this is the only way to ensure you actually got one besides the name.

Is it posible to get less statements or an all-in-one? Absolutely. These are called self directed plans (even with an advisor) or sometimes wrap-accounts. They have small fees, 10-15 dollars per month like your chequeing account. Notably, when you have this type of plan with all your diversified investments in it, you only receive the one statement plus confirms for transactions, instead of one from every company you deal with. And keep in mind, you can expect to reasonably deal with a minimum of one fundco (if that’s what you’re using) for every 20-25 thousand invested for a typical middleclass individual. This is only a guideline, talk to a professional about your particular circumstances.

Don’t forget to compare your statements against each other over time to look at the growth rate on the holdings so that you are prepared in advance of your next portfolio review. This way you can derive the value and answers that you deserve from your advisor, and they will be encouraged that you are participating and involved instead of doing the annual complaint ‘why aren’t my returns higher?’ conversation.

Posted by: matthewlatimer | 10/31/2009

Who owns your client information?

Privacy is on everyones mind these days, and with the complications to trust in professional advisory relationships brought about by high profile fraud events it bears discussing.

The advisor that you have selected to work with you on enhancing wealth is entrusted with the most personal data, from social insurance number to salary and health insurance details. If anything ever happened to him, what happens?

All of the information that you provide to your financial advisor is the property of the brokerage where he works, even if he works off site or in a home office. You should always know the name of the dealer and website or phone number, and keep it with your other important info. If you change advisors, update it.

The financial advisor certainly has use of your information while he is a member of the firm sponsoring his licence, but not otherwise. If the advisor changes firms, you could certainly expect a call from him to convince you to move your account to the new institution and maintain the advisory relationship. It would be out of bounds for any other data to be retained, statements or otherwise. There are exception to this rule, but if you are feeling uncertain, call the dealer and ask for compliance.

Posted by: matthewlatimer | 10/30/2009

Regulators in Canada

In Canada, not everyone can be a financial advisor. There are courses to take, exams to pass, and then you have to sign up with (become sponsored by) a dealership. Beyond that, the dealerships are overseen by the SRO (self regulatory organizations) which is in turn overseen by the individual provincial securities regulators.

Each level of oversight provides protection for the investor by various means, and although this doesn’t mean that fraud is eliminated entirely, it is certainly reduced because of it.

There are investor insurance pools against default (CDIC, IPC,CIPF). These funds provide significant individual coverage against investor loss due to bankruptcy and/or insolvency of the dealers and product providers. Please see their respective websites here, and they are also posted in my links section on the right. The coverages vary, so look into the details for each that apply to you.

Investor protection:
CIPF
IPC
CDIC

SROs:
MFDA
IIROC
AMF

Government bodies:
Ontario Securities Commission

Financial Services Commission of Ontario

Robust complaint handling processes are enforced through dealerships and product manufacturers right up through the provincial ombudsmans office.

It is frequently overlooked by investors that the markets have pricing risk; there is no one to complain to if the price of what you own goes down. No insurance protection against normal losses. These structures are set up against fraud and insolvency.

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